“Ride the bus,” they said. “It will be fun,” they said.

Our sweet ride on the way back...

“Ride the bus,” they said. 
“It will be fun,” they said.

John recently had some business in a city near the Red Sea called “Hurghada.”  We had visited a couple other places near there, but hadn’t yet had opportunity to visit this one.  Now we had the chance.

Our collection of tickets

Our local friend, Ahmed*, had just been there and recommended that we take the bus.  “It’s only 60 LE!  Well, 70 LE ($10) for foreigners.”  

I had my doubts.  Hurghada is a quite a distance and I’m familiar with the driving habits here.  John checked our other options (plane or private car) and discussed them with me.  After weighing all the pros and cons we thought, “Why not?  It’s only $10 each!”

I was worried that we wouldn’t be able to secure tickets at such a late date, but Ahmed assured us the day before was no problem.  We purchased our tickets.  We were Seats 1 & 2.  Apparently, tickets were no problem at all.

The bus would depart at 3:30 pm.  We (of course) arrived 30 minutes early.  No need.  There was no bus and no passengers until 3:25 pm.  Everyone calmly stepped on the bus.  I counted heads…7 plus a driver in a large charter bus.  Hmmmmm….this can’t be cost-effective.

The bus took off close to the 3:30 pm start time.  I pulled out a book and began to read.  John searched for a window he could look out so he wouldn’t throw up.  So far so good.

Where am I?! Yachts everywhere!

I was told that there was a bathroom on the bus which gave me a level of comfort should the need arise.  However, I did severely limit my intake anyway.  There were mostly men on the bus and I couldn’t imagine myself walking from the front to the very back passing all of the onlookers. (Did I mention I was also the only blonde on the bus?)

We trucked down the road a bit until we came to a small town.  The bus driver came to a halt and a few more passengers were added.  The ticket guy from Aswan rides on the bus and continues his job of selling tickets to those who secure a seat.  He wanted us to have extra good luck traveling so he played a recitation of the Koran on the overhead speakers…loudly.  Thankfully, I had my iPod with some sweet Kirk Franklin tunes ready to go.

We stopped at a couple checkpoints and government security came on to look around.  I’m not sure how secure of a check that is, but I sat with my best posture when he walked by.

The official bathroom stop came at Hour 5.  A local lady and I smiled at each other as we got off the bus and made a beeline for the facilities.  Now please don’t picture a gas station toilet when I mention this.  That would be a bit too nice to compare.  This stop had a row of squatty potties that were unisex.  I rolled up my pant legs, took my packet of tissues and hand sanitizer and headed in.  

Sort of like a 7-11, this place also sold tea, sandwiches and sheesha.  Truly a one-stop shop.

Kite surfing is a major sport here.

After 20 minutes, the driver sounded the horn and everyone boarded the bus.  We continued town to town collecting more and more passengers until the bus was entirely full.

We couldn’t make a lot of fast progress because of all the speed bumps that are in place.  Someone thought that during the Egyptian Revolution of 2011, that somehow speed bumps would prevent protestors from making it to Cairo.  So a LOT of speed bumps were put in from the very Southern part of Egypt, to the East and all the way to the North.  

I wonder if the French ever felt the same way. “Vive la…eh…too many speed bumps!  Let’s go home.”

Little by little we made our way.  A new ticket man put a movie in for all of us to watch.  It was some B-movie from America called, “The Land of Dragons” starring no one we had ever heard of.  It was in English so I think the guy was showing it for our benefit.  I hope that most American actors that have made B and C movies know that it's not in vain.  They live on everyday in Egyptian television programming…and now on busses.

Finally after 8 passenger pickups, 2 security checks and 2 bathroom breaks, we pulled into the bus station in Hurghada.  It was 1:30 am.

Hard Rock Cafe...Lettuce!  Beef!  Cheese!
Heaven...I'm in Heaven!

John and I unfolded ourselves and disembarked.  We asked about return tickets but were told that no tickets are sold in advance.  You have to come on the day you wish to depart and wait.  Then when the bus with your destination arrives, you jump on hoping that there is a seat available.  If so, then you sit and pay the ticket man.  If not, malish! (sorry!), come back again tomorrow.

We arrived at our hotel completely exhausted but grateful to have made it in one piece.  

The city itself is fairly new.  It’s a tourist town and attracts mostly Russians so signs and menus are in Arabic and Russian.  Million dollar yachts lined the marina and a Tommy Hilfiger store was across the way.  I couldn’t believe my eyes.  Aswan doesn’t even have a large grocery store and it’s the third largest city in Egypt!  This town had a Hard Rock Cafe!  I was indeed in shock, but still managed to order a burger there.

Don't ask me to explain...not sure.

We had a great time, took care of business and mentally prepared ourselves for the bus ride back.  Our new taxi driver friend, Adl*, picked us up and waited with us at the bus stop.  It was 10 pm.  When the correct bus pulled up, he took his 5’1” frame and forced himself onto the bus.  He hockey-checked a couple people while yelling at me, “Madam!  Madam!  Go!  Go!”  I felt bad for half a second when I saw all the others also trying to get on, but the bus world is a dog-eat-dog world and if we were going to get seats, this is how it gets done.  I scooted to the back making apologies along the way and found two seats together.  I draped myself across both of them until John could get the luggage stowed and get on board.

Adl wished us a safe trip and we settled in for another long journey.  We left around 10:30 pm and made it back to Aswan at 7:30 am.  (Egyptians love to travel at night and see no point in day-time travel…ever.)  This bus had a similar pattern of stops and starts with the exception of security.  This bus had originated in the Sinai peninsula so the checkpoints were definitely more thorough.  We (and everyone else aboard) had to show our passports to an armed guard.  No issues though so we were waived on.

Upon our return, our friends asked if we would do that again. I think I would.  Yes, it was long and sometimes a bit (okay a lot!) uncomfortable, but this is how most all locals travel.  It’s good for us to know the challenges they face and the way that they have to navigate their destinations.  It’s real life here and we are one bus ride richer for it…even if it is eternal.

So many fabulous lights!