5 in 400,000

McDonald's on the Nile

Last night John and I decided to venture out at iftar (the breaking of the fast at sunset) and eat at McDonald's.  Yes, I said McDonald's.  If anything our little part of the world is full of such paradoxical living.  While dining on a Quarter Pounder and a fountain Diet Coke, I watched a man dressed like he's from the Old Testament trot by on his donkey. Paradox indeed.  

We ate slowly and took our time because we knew it would be a while before the stores would reopen.  Around 8 pm we began the walk toward the souk (open air market) and were greeted by the owner of the Kit Kat dukon (small store).  I sometimes use his dukon as a marker because he has a giant KitKat advertisement over his shop.  It's my way of "landmark navigation."

He remembered us from before and soon engaged John in a political discussion.  Now if fast Arabic is difficult to understand, then toothless-cigarette-in-mouth-fast Arabic is almost impossible.  However, he would pump his fists, gain volume and refer to Mubarak (long-term former president of Egypt) and then to Morsi (short-term former president of Egypt).  He showed fists fighting by bumping them together and then said, "Here in town…no problems…but no business."

John shook his head while saying he understood.  (The sentiment of the discussion, that is…not all the Arabic.)  It's true.  While Cairo is the center of all that's happening politically, further up the Nile the "everyday" people are just trying to survive.

He shook his head and threw up his hands as it to say, "What can we do?"  We bought a couple things from him and continued walking.

Helping the local economy during a prior visit...

Another man who provided horse carriage rides approached us. His opening line was, "No business.  Nothing."  John nodded his head again.  The man continued, "So cheab (cheap)! Only 20 Egyptian bounds (pounds)!  No business.  No people."  John continued, "I understand.  It is a big problem."  Still the man pressed.  "Okay, okay.  10 bounds."  John shook his hand and told him thank you but said that we would really like to walk.

Finally, the man relented and said, "As you like."

The streets began to fill with people who had eaten and were now ready to shop.  I pulled out my list of things and asked John if we could stop at the Grand Mall to have a look.  I didn't really think that the Grand Mall would be grand, but it was worth a shot.

We walked inside and the place was packed with families looking at clothing and shoes.  I was shocked to see Adidas, Nike and Champion name brands.  Seeing no housewares on the first floor,  we made our way up to the second floor.  In my head I was saying, "Men's Wear: Shoes, Pants, Belts, Shirts."  We continued walking up the steps to the third floor until we saw pots, pans and rugs.

Oh, Egypt.  You so love your bright colors and gold trim!  On one side were shimmery curtains with lots of beading, edged in gold braid.  Further on were toasters and rice cookers.  Around the corner we saw skillets and soup pots.  Eureka!  We sorted through different ones trying to decide which would get us by for now.  (We have some in luggage that has not been brought into Egypt.)  Soon an older sales associate came to see if we needed help.  He began collecting our goods for us.

After a bit, a younger man appeared and greeted us.  He was the owner of the store.  He asked if we were from Germany.  (We have found out that it is more polite to ask people with our characteristics if we're from Germany rather than from America.)  We responded in Arabic saying that we were from America.  

"America?!  Oh, that's wonderful.  I lived in Chicago for 15 years," he said in brilliant English.  He began telling us how he missed many things in America even the cold.

I laughed and said, "I myself would like a shipment of cold right now, too."

He gave us a brief history of the store and asked us to sit and drink tea.  It was a polite gesture because he didn't repeat the offer.  John thanked him and we went to pay for our items.  He invited us to return "any time at all."

With bags in hand, we made our way back to the street.  John asked if I wanted to go into the souk to do additional shopping.  I told him that I was finished for the evening.  My Quarter Pounder needed rest.

He hailed a taxi (lots of packages and dark=taxi ride) and we were on our way back to the flat.  He introduced himself to the taxi driver who was a man in his mid 30s and wearing a broad grin.  The driver said, "My name is Yah-Yah."  John asked him to repeat.  He did.  John smiled and said, "That is my name, too!"  They both slapped hands and began asking each other questions.

Yah-Yah said that he was a professor at a university during the day, but drives taxi part-time.  John told him that he had worked at a school in S*dan and was hoping to be able to meet other teachers in town.  They continued talking until we pulled up to our flat.  John exchanged numbers with him and told him we'd see him again.

One walk into town and we meet 5 people.  Sometimes it's overwhelming to be in a country where we are minority everything, in a city of 400,000 and not to know or be known by anyone.  But we've been down this road before.  We have enough history to know that it takes time, purposed effort and the Lord's help.  I just have to remember that this time "in the middle" is part of it, part of the process, part of my growth in trusting Jesus.  

So…to all my future friends, I look forward to taking a carriage ride with you to McDonald's and over a McFlurry we'll discuss what items we'll buy at the Grand Mall before we take a taxi ride back to our place where we eat Kit Kats from our favorite dukon owner.  See you then!

Sweet taxi complete with a video monitor and stuffed parrot.

Today's BOGO Blog:  Koshary

Sadik

A couple days ago, John hailed a taxi and so began our relationship with Sadik*.  Sadik's appearance matched his taxi…older, weather-worn and missing a few parts (teeth and air conditioning respectively).  He was a friendly sort and willingly drove us all around town trying to locate the items on our list.  On that day, we hit about 25% success rate due to the flexible hours during Ramadan which are:

8:00 am-11:00 am     Don't even think about it
11:00 am-2:00 pm     If we can get one employee to show up to open the doors, you're good.
2:00 pm -3:00 pm     Your best bet IF they are even open at all during the day, but the employee may be asleep in the back.
3:00-Sunset               Absolutely no chance at all
9:00 pm-2:00 am       Let the good times roll!

Now John and I very much want to integrate with the culture as much as we can, but with the current political conditions we've been advised to not venture out too much without the escort of an Egyptian friend.  Good wisdom, but I HAVE A TO-DO LIST!!!!!!

Now that you've seen that ugly side of me, I'll proceed with our helpful taxi driver, Sadik.  John called Sadik again and asked him to pick us up for another day of errands.  He told us he would be there in 30 minutes and much to our happiness…it was actually 30 minutes.  He greeted us with a big, gummy grin and asked where we wanted to go today.

Our first stop was going to be the mattress store.  (Actually this would be our 3rd try, but first stop on this particular day.)  He honked his way through the few pedestrians until we pulled up to the front of Taki Mattresses.  (Yes, this made me laugh, but they're the only game in town.)  The lights were on.  Yessssssss!

We walked in and found one lone employee with his head on the desk asleep.  He woke up when we entered and quickly shook himself to duty.  John introduced himself and began relaying our request for a mattress.  (We actually need 4, but we thought we'd start out with 1 to see how it goes.)  

Much talk passed about size, thickness, coil count and month of use.  Month of use?  What is that?  We discovered that because our location is so very hot, that the manufacturers have taken to creating mattresses with a different kind of material that won't absorb so much heat.  The other side is for the "winter" months when it drops to a chilly 80 degrees.  

We debated between the "Four Seasons" and the "White Golden" only until we discovered they didn't actually have a "Four Seasons" in stock.  That pretty much made our decision for us.  One "White Golden" mattress, please.  John asked if they could deliver and the employee suggested we attach it to the top of the taxi.  However, another employee had arrived and assured John that they would indeed be happy to deliver.  

Sadik had waited patiently through all of this, but stuck his head in to see if we needed anything.  John nodded and asked him to relay to the employee our home address (since there are no numbers, streets or anything of the sort).  We paid our bill, took a receipt and proceeded to the next shop.

We still have contact with some of our friends in S*dan which is great, but does eat through our phone minutes quickly.  We told Sadik we needed to "top up" our phones with credit.  He drove us by Mobinil which was closed.  He asked around and found out that they would open at 8:30 pm.  I looked at the time.  It was 4:00 pm.  No go.

We're still batting .500.  

The next stop was for cleaning supplies.  I showed Sadik my picture of cleaning goods to which he quickly zipped around a corner to a man who had it all.  I picked up all the needed items and asked the store owner how much the total was.  He told me when Sadik stepped in.  He asked the man to tell him the price of each item.  Sadik did the math and gave me the nod.  I made my purchases and began a happy dance.  I was now the proud owner of a mop, a broom AND 2 buckets.  Yessirree, things are looking up.

Our last stop was going to be the subermarket, but they were just locking the doors when we pulled up.  Sadik asked what we needed.  I said, "Soap, laundry detergent and Diet Coke."  He drove (quite quickly) through the small streets to a small dukon (7-11ish).  A teenage boy asked what I needed.  I requested Coca Light and laundry soap.  Sadik stood next to me and reminded me that I also needed hand soap.  I cracked up and thanked him.

They had everything I needed with the exception of Coca Light or Bebsi Diet. I told Sadik that I was happy and we could go home now.  However, he suggested to John that we go back to get the mattress.  He had a rope in his car and could tie it on top.  John shrugged and said, "Sure, why not?"  So back we went.

We secured the mattress and told Sadik we were finished.  He said, "But you don't have Coca Light?"  I told him it was no problem and we could look another day.  He said, "We will look!"

As we drove from the mattress store toward our apartment, Sadik slowed at every dukon checking for my beverage.  A couple times he thought he saw it and I hopped out.  False alarm.

He was determined even though the afternoon was waning and the shops were all closing in preparation for iftar.  We were ready to turn a corner when I spotted a cooler with Bebsi Diet.  I jumped out and purchased a few bottles.  Sadik was once again by my side making sure that I was paying a fair price.

When I returned to the car he smiled and said, "Now you are finished!"  Yes, today we were finished.    3 things on our list accomplished.  In this part of the world, it's simply miraculous.  Thank you, Sadik, and thank you, Jesus, for sending friends our way.

*Not his real name

I was in more of a supervisory position...

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Today's BOGO Blog:  Bleckkkkkkkkkkh!