It's not your typical Sunday here. Today is the first day of Ramadan. For millions of Muslims around the world, they will adhere to one of the four pillars of Islam by fasting from any food or liquid from sunup to sundown over the next 30 days.
In our part of the world it changes the way people do business here. First, Egypt declared a time change on Friday which moved the clock back an hour. (It's still the same number of sunlight hours in the day, but for some reason they think it helps.) Then, most businesses will be closed during the morning hours and will open late afternoon with extended hours late into the night.
Families gather together at sunset and wait for the call to prayer to begin feasting. (You do NOT want to be in traffic during this time as tempers flare with the heat and hunger compounding through the day.)
We had been out of town for a few days so we thought that we had better pick up some groceries before Ramadan officially started. Once it does, there is no guarantee that I'll find any of the foods that I usually do.
We called Sadik* and he took us first to a small store that was well-stocked. Woot! I gathered cashews, almonds, dried figs and sodas all in preparation of entertaining our local friends. We then proceeded to the fwakahanee (fruit guy) where we loaded up on apricots (Aria's special request) and all the other items currently in season.
Finally, we headed to the "big" grocery store in town. This is the place that I buy my garbage bags and chicken filets. Sadik pulled up in front of the entrance and we couldn't quite believe what was happening. People were everywhere. At first I thought there was a riot of some sort, but then realized it was just customers trying to get in and out of the store doors.
John led the way and I followed closely behind getting smashed from all sides. Once we entered we thought there would be a clearing, but no go. I had never seen the store so packed. People were everywhere buying everything. They had had the same idea that I did. When you are the last city in the country for the supply train, you worry about goods being available probably more than the average guy.
We pressed our way to the first aisle and began picking up what we could while dodging carts and flailing appendages. I had just arrived at the freezer section and saw a woman with 4 packs of chicken in her arms. She studied each of them and tossed back 2. I quickly scooped them up and realized that I had just gotten the last 2 packs in the store. I felt eyes staring at me as I pointed to the whole chickens further down hoping it would distract the currently chickenless customers during my getaway.
I got garbage bags (always plenty to be found here since no one really sees need for them) and some other items that were in the "Since I'm here I might as well…" category.
Sadik had come into the store by now (as is his custom) to help us check out. He grabbed some things from my arms and began pushing his way to the front. He had just cut in front of a long line of women when he gave the signal for me to follow. I shook my head no. He said yes. I said no. There was no way I was going into the fray of angry women.
He resigned himself and came to stand by us in the line a ways back. He was clearly disappointed, but tempers were on edge and the 4th cash register had just broken down. This meant that there were now several shoppers merging into the same line from a variety of directions.
I looked at John and told him to forget it. Leave the stuff. We'll come back. He thought we should hang in there. I disagreed. I wanted to live. He held out. So we stood. The men who had been directed by their wives to pick up a last minute item were now cursing the heavens because they had endangered their lives for 4 yogurts and a chicken. However, they feared their wives more than the crowd because no one got out of line no matter how little they had to purchase.
Finally, Sadik saw an opening and put our chicken right in front of the cashier who quickly entered the price. Once he had taken our first item we had to be allowed to complete the transaction. Change was running low for the cashier so he had packets of ketchup, vanilla powder and boxes of matches to give in lieu of change. One lady even got a block of cheese.
I handed the cashier almost the right amount and he thrust the change in my hand before being accosted by another customer trying to purchase her groceries.
By now the doors to the store were closed and the security guard was controlling the flow of who goes in and out. As we exited he allowed a man wearing a turban and a frustrated look to enter. I silently wished the man luck and breathed the air of freedom.
We put the groceries in the car and drove away thankful to have made it out with goods in hand. Sadik asked if we wanted to go anywhere else. I said, "Hakuma maqufool." (The government is closed.) He laughed and took us home. I put away the perishables and took a nap.
Later that evening, we had local friends who stopped by to say hello. (So glad that John had us "hold strong" and purchase the goods.) As per custom here, I offered them first a glass of water followed by their choice of Fanta Orange, Coke or Diet Coke. They chose Fanta. I had made brownies earlier in the day in anticipation of their visit so Aria and I prepared plates of them also including cashews and a hard candy.
The husband speaks English, but his wife doesn't. I jumped in with both feet and began speaking in Arabic as best I could. Aria (who is with us for the summer) also contributed and between the two of us we managed to keep the conversation flowing.
Aria went to the kitchen to prepare the next tray of beverages which is hot tea. She had just set the tray down when the husband said, "We are so sorry. We must go. There are special prayers for Ramadan tonight."
John told him that it was no problem and that they were welcome any time. We said our goodbyes and John walked them to the gate as Aria took the unused tray back to the kitchen.
Yes, Ramadan changes things here. But how grateful we are to be here in the desert with beautiful friends sharing Bread and Living Water with those thirsty and hungry.
