Along the Nile

Right now it's blazing hot here.  The saving grace during this season is that the temps do cool down in the evening so that morning is quite pleasant.

We have some friends visiting, so we thought it would be nice to plan most outings in the morning or evening hours.  We would hate to return them to their homes with tomato-like appearances.  

John called Mustafa* and had him meet us with his felucca.  Mustafa arrived right on time but with a motor boat.  "No wind," he said.  We responded, "No problem."  We have had the opportunity before to sit in a windless sailboat and "take in the view" for long periods of time.  Motorboat it is.

We climbed in and began our trek down and around the first cataract of the Nile.  This river is the longest in the world and has fascinated many by its rich history.  Many Nubians live along the Nile in Upper Egypt.  The Nubian people have an amazing heritage that includes a royal history as the  "Black Pharaohs."  The Nubians that we know today are hospitable, open, intelligent and welcoming.  

As we continued down the Nile, we passed a clump of plants that Mustafa wanted to show us.  He pulled up alongside the shore and touched the leaves.  The leaves immediately folded up.  He said it was a carnivorous plant.  Now THAT is very cool.  He told us the name of it is "Shy Lady." (Although I have to admit that the Hall & Oates song started rumbling around in my head…"Oooooh, here she comes, watch out boy…"

Our friends commented on the colorful houses on one side of the river.  Nubians are extremely creative people.  They love bright colors and decorate their houses accordingly.  The dome design allows the heat the rise leaving the lower part of the room cooler during warm summer days.

We pass by a group of children spear fishing from the rocks at the shore.  They didn't seem to be much success, but they were all having a really good time.

A beach that we visited last week was now hosting a group of camels who looked like they wanted to take a union break.  I can't blame them.

Egypt is 95% desolate without the life that the Nile brings to it.  All the green that we see is only in close proximity to the water.  Desert is on either side.  The Nile has sustained this country and allowed its people to carve out a living in a very harsh land.

Mustafa steered us alongside an area of giant granite boulders.  Here we see actual hieroglyphics carved into the rock.  The area that we live in had been an ancient port for trade ships coming from Tanzania, Uganda, Sudan, Ethiopia and the countries along the Mediterranean. Amazing!

The quiet river ride and historical lessons were traded for the morning honks of local traffic.  Mustafa took us toward the city where hieroglyphics are replaced by hotels and cataracts are taken care of in a modern eye hospital.

Ancient and modern.  The Nubians have a saying, "There is no wheat where there is no grain."  I'm thankful to live among such an incredibly resilient people where seeds of Truth can be planted just as the lush vegetation takes root and flourishes along the Nile.

_______________________

*Not his real name

Congratulations, Jacob and Emileigh Rogers!

The Happy Couple!  

Jacob

It's been exactly 2 months today since our oldest daughter, Emileigh and her love, Jacob stood in front of their teary-eyed mothers (and a host of others) pledging life-long commitment to each other.  We couldn't be happier.  Jacob is a wonderful man who has great character, integrity and love for God.  He had demonstrated over the last 3 years the kind of husband he would be through his respect and thoughtfulness toward Emileigh and us, the parents.

Still it seems a bit like a dream, too.  Did that really happen? I ask myself.  I can remember the details clearly, but could 22 years have passed that quickly and brought us to this milestone?  

Grandma and Cousins help!

I left Egypt in mid-April to be with Emileigh and Aria prior to the wedding.  There were still many details to work out and trying to accomplish some of them overseas was frankly too difficult.  Emileigh and Jacob were also graduating from college so we had additional cause to celebrate.

Our families assisted the wedding prep by cutting, wrapping, labeling, gathering.  Our friends celebrated, hugged, contributed talents and gifts… All of it was coming together.  I promised myself I would cherish each moment; to not be so busy with details that it all slipped away in a blur.

Amazing People!

First, Aria moved out of the dorm and then Emileigh.  By then, John had arrived as well and the countdown to wedded bliss began, but first the graduation ceremonies.  Both of them had grown and learned so much during their college days.  We celebrated all together with a congratulatory steak for each of them.

We traveled to Alton, IL (Jacob's hometown) for the location of the wedding.  This was really happening John and I kept saying to each other.  We are parents of ADULT children.  Still we played it cool.

We visited the church where the ceremony and reception were to be held.  I hadn't seen it before and neither had my friends who had come with us to help in all things decor.  It was a beautiful venue and everyone was simply wonderful to us. 

The Rehearsal

The vendors had all been contacted and finalized.  The rehearsal again brought in to focus that made it real.  No more talking about it.  No more "imagine ifs".  Emileigh and Jacob's friends made their time before the wedding fun and exciting.  I ran behind everyone with a big smile and an even bigger list of To-Dos.

The day of the wedding arrived and it was beautiful.  It had rained for days and we didn't know what to expect.  The temperature was moderate and the sky was blue.  I breathed a prayer of thanks and the day began.

Friends and family arrived from all over the U.S. for the 1 pm ceremony.  Emileigh had made one special request…Would I please make chocolate gravy & biscuits (plus bacon) for her wedding breakfast?  Of course I would.

I took the tray into the bridesmaids and discovered that no one was nervous enough NOT to eat.  The platter was clean in no time.

Jacob and his groomsmen were preparing in another room. His parents doing a great job keeping them fed and on track.

The Dudes

The next few hours were a flurry as the hair stylists arrived and all manner of final preparations began.

At 12:45 pm, I found John and just stared at my wonderful husband.  So handsome and such an amazing man.  We've been ecstatically in love for over 27 years.  He still makes my heart flip.  I asked him if he were ready.  He nodded.

Praying Together

I returned to the room where Emileigh was now ready.  I looked at this incredible, beautiful lady and felt tears forming in my eyes.  I nearly burst with thankfulness and gratitude.  Thankful for 22 years.  Thankful for her commitment to Jesus.  Thankful that she chose well.  Thankful that she's setting her life up for success.  Thankful that she loves her family.  Thankful that she's simply…Emileigh.

I took her hand and we all prayed together.

I looked at my phone.  It's time.

The bridesmaids took their places and John raised his arm to Emileigh.  She took it as he remarked how beautiful she looked and together they walked down the aisle.

This is it!

Yes, they've been married 2 months today.  So much love and so much hope for the future.  They will learn about each other in the years to come.  They will grow in their understanding of loving the other one well.  But they're off to a good start and as a parent, I couldn't ask for more.

Let me also say how grateful we are for each family member and friend who were so kind and generous in all they did to make this moment special.  We live a bit of a crazy life, but it's a rich one full of thoughtful, amazing people who mean so much to us.  Thank you.

I guess I only have one more thing to say!  Happy Monthiversary, Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Rogers!

Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Rogers!

Swing band playing 40s music

Classic car show during the reception

Salute to veterans in the wedding decor.

Beautiful.

Amazing photography by Noor Barron Photography!

Beautiful flowers by Darlene and Sue!  Thank you!

Sigh...

Origami crane folding…an old family tradition.

A beautiful day...

When Vegans Come to Town

5 days before the wedding...

5 days before Emileigh's wedding, she contracted some awful virus that sent her to urgent care.  This was the first time in her whole life we had taken her to the hospital…for anything.  She couldn't keep liquids down, had fever and was unable to walk.  After a couple IVs later and a few days rest, she piped up on Thursday and said, "I sure could go for a steak."  We knew then that she was on the road to recovery.  She simply loves meat. 

The sign says it all.

Aria, on the other hand, is a "conscientious omnivore."  I'm still learning what that is, but basically she will eat certain kinds of meat, but leans heavily toward fruits and veggies.

John and I fall somewhere in between.  This is not a matter of conviction for us as much as it is availability.  When you see the carcass of a cow thrown into the back of a box truck in 115º weather being delivered to your local grocery store, you suddenly become a vegetarian for the week.  Other times a nice frozen pack of chicken will arrive and you are back to being a carnivore.

A couple weeks ago, a friend of a friend told us about two cyclists that were making their way through Africa and were currently in our city.  Now we've already hosted a Russian backpacker and a Korean cyclist, so we're open to meeting new friends.  We arranged to meet them at McDonald's (the best known landmark for foreigners in town) and visit with them.

Delicious.

They were a great couple in their 30s who had taken a break from their normal work lives and had decided to bike from France to South Africa.  They had been successful right up until the point they wished to enter Sudan.  That's when the complications arose.  (There seems to be a pattern.)  Seth* is a Canadian with which the Sudanese government has no issues.  Samantha* is American and Sudan has a lot of issues with the U.S.  They simply wouldn't approve a visa for her travels in the country.  So they've been in a holding pattern here in our city for almost 2 months.

While they've been waiting, they have made the rounds meeting some of the people who live here.  They had heard that we had lived in Sudan so they wanted to meet us for any advice or tips we may have.  Thus, the meeting at McDonald's.

Since John and I have taken to the "clean way of eating" McDonald's hasn't been in our routine for many months now, but again it's an easy landmark.  We arrived and had no problem picking out Seth and Samantha.  We greeted one another and asked if they would like to go order something.  They shook their heads no and said they'd wait for us.

More delicious.

We weren't sure what to do.  We didn't want to be rude and eat in front of them, but we also didn't want to go hungry.  We asked again and they assured us they were fine.  We placed our order and rejoined them at the table.  As we began introducing ourselves, Samantha smiled and said, "You know how you know a vegan?"  I shook my head no.  She replied, "They will tell you that they are vegans in the first five minutes of conversation."

Ah.  Vegans.  McDonald's.  Completely incompatible.  Good call, Pam.  

They were gracious and continued drinking their delicious, completely pure and free-range water.  I ate my McChicken smiling the whole time.

Now when's the main dish coming?

They could see no foreseeable visa in sight for Sudan, so we invited them for a visit to our home on another day.  They arrived in the afternoon enjoying the feel of a home after having been gone from theirs for almost a year.  As we conversed, we discovered Samantha was a pastry chef in France.  OH MY WORD!  There are a lot of good things about Egypt, but pastries is not one of them.  This could be the answer to my secret Panera longing.  I tried to conceal my exuberance at this information and said, "Oh, how nice."  (I immediately began thinking of ingredients in my cabinet.)

Seth is a genetic biologist who does things I can't repeat simply because I have no idea what he said.  It was all very scientific and things, but seriously I couldn't keep up.  He's smart.  Let's leave it at that.

New Friends

As the visit progressed, I tried to think of things to serve them.  We had already had tea and cookies, but now what?  I grabbed some nectarines and cashews.  (Those aren't offensive, are they?)  I tried to find other items.  Aria found some figs and dates.  We added those to the mix.  As dinner time approached, I was at a loss.  I HAVE NO TOFU.  WHAT DO I DO NOW?!

Fortunately, they were quite satisfied with what I had set out.  They left us a bit later and said, "We will come cook for you sometime!"

This was not an empty offer.  They arrived the next week complete with bags of groceries and began cooking up a storm.  I was intrigued to see what vegans would create.  I was not disappointed.  Such an array of great food.  We invited our Australian friend over too and soon our United Nations dinner was ready.

What a great time we had!  What good friends and terrific food!  We've always told our girls, "Keep your circle wide. You'll meet interesting people that way and it will keep you from getting weird."  

Vegan cyclists.  Yes, more fun friends for the books.  This life is never dull.

*Not their real names

A maple bacon donut for John from Emileigh and Jacob

7 Tips: Packing for International Travel

1.  Keep it minimal.

It is my sincere belief that airline officials stay up through the night thinking of new restrictions to interject into my latest travel itinerary including luggage rules.  When you book an international flight you will most likely have more than one layover.  Whichever company takes you "over the pond" or the main leg is the company that determines the amount and weight of your luggage.  

Know the facts before you get there, otherwise you may have to pay excess baggage fees and that is not a good way to start out on a trip.  Plus the more bags you have, the greater the opportunity to have one lost in transit.

2.  Keep it light.

Do you really need to take a copy of "War and Peace" with you or might a Kindle-like apparatus be a better choice?  Are 4 jars of peanut butter your best use of weight?  Keep in mind when you are packing that you are not only trying to keep it under the airline maximum to avoid fees, but you're also going to have to schlep these bags at your final destination which is not always easy.

3.  Keep it necessary.

Really think through the clothing you'll need.  Make a list and create a game for yourself to see how many outfits you can create out of the least amount of clothing.  Packing clothing that is all in the same color family will reduce your list considerably.  Take shoes that are in the same palate so that they will coordinate with a number of outfits.

Medicines are good to have, but make sure that they are in the original prescription bottle they came in.  Putting them in a Ziploc will get you a visit from the customs officer and your goods confiscated.

4.  Keep it organized.

This may sound over the top but keeping a list of every item you pack will prove helpful.  If your suitcase is lost in transit, many times the airline representative will ask you to describe the suitcase color, size, shape and its contents.  You may think you'll remember, but under pressure and many hours awake makes your mind fuzzy.  If you have a list, it will be ready to go.

Recording each suitcase brand, size, shape and color with its total contents will relieve a lot of stress at the beginning and end of your trip.  You'll know right away if everything arrived and if you are leaving with everything you brought.

Put complete outfits in each suitcase.  Don't just put shoes in one and blouses in another.  If one suitcase is lost, then you're stuck.  And always keep 1-2 outfits in your carryon just in case none of your luggage arrives.  You will be very happy to have some fresh clothes after the long travel.

5.  Keep it appropriate.

What kind of culture are you entering?  In some Asian cultures, showing your arms is taboo, but shorts are acceptable.  In others, showing legs or arms is inappropriate.  Pack clothes that will be appropriate to the weather, but more importantly will show respect to the host culture.  You'll receive their unspoken appreciation as well as avoid unwanted comments.

If you are entering a hot environment, pack natural fiber clothing.  Most places do not have A/C readily available and if they do, blackouts occur often.  To keep from turning into a burning ball of fury, think cotton.

6.  Keep it functional.

When choosing your luggage, think about how you will get it from Point A to Point B.  Does it have wheels?  If not, is it a manageable weight to carry?  Is the lock janky?  Will the luggage endure the rough treatment that it will receive over the next many hours?

Clothing and shoes should be functional, too.  You may look like a fashion plate, but will those stilettos really work when you have to walk all day?  Or will those "every day" shoes you have hold up in muddy, rocky terrain?  Choose clothes and shoes that are durable and comfortable.  (No, I am not being sponsored by Rockport.)

7.  Keep it secure.

If the item(s) you have is very important, put it in your carry on.  This includes all media items.  If you want to put it into a checked bag then put the important items in the middle covered by other items.  I've even been known to put items in plastic Walmart bags, tie them in a knot and then tape all of the bags together with strapping tape creating one big large block inside my suitcase.  This has proven the best deterrent from theft, but ticks off the TSA.

Purchase TSA locks and make sure you lock each piece of luggage and have an identification tag with a full name and address on the outside.  I also pack zip ties for the return trip.  Most airlines abroad allow zip ties plus locks and plastic wrap for checked bags.

Implement these tips with a little hard work up front and you'll have a less stressful time once you've arrived at your final destination!  Bon voyage!

A Nubian Wedding

One of the first friends that we made here in our fair city warmly welcomed us back from our time in the US.  He asked how everyone (and I mean everyone) in our family was doing followed by an invitation to his brother's wedding.  He had mentioned it before our travels so we knew he might be serious.

He told us to be ready at 9:30 on Thursday night.  The day he invited us was Monday.  That is incredible lead time in this culture.  

Thursday arrived and we had had a lot of activity going on.  Different people had dropped in, John had been doing home repairs (as always) and the heat had reached a new high of 118º.  Aria and I had finished washing the dishes and sat down for a cool down break.  John joined us and we all concluded that we were exhausted.  Then we remembered the wedding.  

For those of you who know John, you remember that he turns into a pumpkin around 10 pm.  But he begins turning shades of orange around 9:30 pm.  We wondered out loud, "I wonder if Mahdi* really meant the invitation." and "Do you think he really means 9:30 pm?"

We pondered and then went about our business.  We hadn't heard from him since our meeting on Monday.  Hanshoof. ("We will see.")

At 9:40 pm, we heard a knock at the door.  Mahdi had arrived and would walk us to the wedding.  Aria and I flew up and began flinging on wedding-appropriate clothing.  We grabbed anything and everything that sparkled.  Five minutes later we dashed out the door and headed toward the big event.

Mahdi took us to a home on the other side of our village.  The door was open so he gestured for us to walk through.  When we did, we saw a room full of men's eyes all staring back at us.  Aria and I immediately backed out.  Mahdi said, "It's okay.  It's okay."

Actually, no it's not.  We can't be in the same room with the men.  He nodded and told us to follow him.  He took us up the stairs to a group of women all hustling around in the kitchen.  They looked up a bit shocked at their guests and then went about their business.

Mahdi took us to a room that had 2 beds, a TV and a refrigerator.  He told us to sit.  We complied.

He returned with John to the room full of men and left us on our own.

We had been in this scenario MANY times before but it is always a bit unnerving wondering what would happen next.

An older woman came in and sat down on the bed opposite us.  We greeted her and she smiled.  She then turned her attention to the TV in which an Egyptian soap opera was on.  We didn't know what else to do so we joined her.

Another woman entered carrying a large tray of food.  She smiled at us and told us to eat.  We began nibbling and offered food to the woman across from us.  She had already eaten, but insisted we go on without her.

Word had now spread that foreigners were in the house.  Children began running through to catch their own glimpse of the excitement.  We smiled and said hello.  They giggled and pushed each other forward to shake hands.

One boy about 5 years old walked in with another who looked to be about 7.  The 7 year old said, "My brother has a question.  Will you marry him?"

I smiled and told him regrettably I would have to decline because I was already married.  They laughed and ran away.

This continued for a couple hours.  It was nearing midnight and every once in a while Aria or I would ask, "So do you think the bride and groom will arrive soon?"  Lissa…lissa.  ("Not yet.  Not yet.")  One lady (totally bedazzled) came in and chatted a bit.  She told us that the bride must first go to the hair stylist along with all the bridesmaids.  Then they meet the groom at the photography studio and have their photos taken.  This process last several hours.

After the photos, the bride, groom and entourage drive around town honking their horns and making their way to the place of the ceremony.

Meanwhile back at the house:  Aria and I have eaten and met around 864 children.

We walked out on the balcony and spotted John sitting in a row of chairs with some other men.  We made eye contact and he joined us at the bottom of the stairs.  He asked if we were all right and we assured him we were.

Mahdi then saw us together and told us to go into another side room.  2 padded benches and a small freezer were in it.  We sat down and Mahdi offered us tea.  Aria and John declined, not wanting to have special treatment but I nodded yes because I had failed to take a nap in the afternoon.  I could barely keep my eyes open.

Soon the children found us and Aria became the rock star of the wedding.  Girls of every age began scooting around her to find out her name, where she was from and if she could dance.  She attempted to answer their questions and keep them entertained for another couple hours.  

At 2:00 am, John went outside and sat next to a man who was also waiting.  He struck up a conversation and was again told "Lissa."  Aria sneaked a peek at what was happening.  A band had arrived and was playing prelude music.  The young girls surrounding Aria now really wanted Aria to get up and dance.  She did a couple moves, but they wanted her to do more.  She politely declined and they began showing her how to shake her shoulders the Nubian way.

We laughed and clapped.  At around 2:30 am, Aria and I were finished.  I simply could not go any more.  We had been on full Arabic speaking alert for 5 hours.  It was way past the time I normally go to bed.  There was no indicator that the bride and groom were coming any time soon.  I found John and told him that we couldn't hold out any longer.

He understood and said that he would stay to represent the family.  I thanked him profusely.  He returned to his seat while Aria and I tried to find our way out of the village.  The streets are dirt and they are little more than paths.  At night, it becomes nothing short of a labyrinth.  A man saw our plight and offered to lead us out.  However, he first led us to his mother in which we were to have tea.

We thanked him but said that we really must be going.  We reached a couple deadends before another man took pity on us and led us back to a street we recognized.  As we were cresting the main road, a long line of cars honked their way toward us.  The bride and groom cometh!  We were able to see the decorated cars and wish them the best at least in our minds.

John says that right after we left, the wedding party arrived and things got really lively.  The bride and groom's families signed the legal document declaring them husband and wife.  The music struck up and the party really started.

Some junior high-aged boys had purchased Roman candles for the occasion.  One boy lit his and began shooting them above the crowd's heads.  Mahdi saw the boy and was furious.  He jerked the Roman candle out of his hand and began yelling at the boy.  The problem was that the Roman candle hadn't finished.  Soon rockets of color were now shooting into the crowd and the panicked people began running in all directions.

John said it was quite a sight.

He arrived home around 4:30 am.  Needless to say, we slept in the next morning.

Our Nubian friends had welcomed us into their lives and we were privileged to be a part.  We were the only foreigners and definitely the only Christians present.  What a gift!

Next time, however, we promised ourselves we WILL take a nap ahead of time and learn some new dance moves.