Foreign Trade

Checking out the Nubian scarves...

Sunday afternoon, John and I joined two of our friends for a walk through the souk (market).  We were looking for a couple gifts and our friends knew of a vendor who had the items we were looking for.

The city we live in is almost completely dependent on tourism.  Since the revolution 2 years ago, economists have said that the tourism industry has declined by 90% in Egypt.  This hits areas where we live very hard.  

As we walked through the streets, different shop owners would call out to us, "Welcome to Aswan!" "Where are you from?" and "Friend…Friend…FRIEND!!!!"

One man noticing that my face was its usual bright red from the heat yelled, "Welcome to Alaska!"  We walked past vendors selling fresh dates, baskets of spices and of course lots and lots of little Pharaoh heads.

The heat has not subsided yet even though I have declared it to be Autumn.  Every day the temp still tips around 110 or so.  This contributes to my need this particular day for the "grab and bag" method, but alas it was not to be.

We finally arrived at the correct booth and were greeted by a tall man in his early 30s.  He hugged our friends and welcomed them back from their vacation.  We shook his hand and introduced ourselves.  Ahmed* immediately brought out chairs for us and asked us what we would like to drink.  (I LOVE this part about Arab hospitality.  You always sit and sip before transacting any kind of business.)

He offered us a choice of water, tea or cold karkaday (hibiscus).  We all chose the latter, it sounded great.  One of his friends ran off to go prepare it and he turned to me to find out what I was looking for.  

I told him that I would like to look at some quilted pillow covers, fabric and scarves.  He transformed into SALESMAN and began pulling merchandise out, displaying it around the store while talking the entire time about the quality of the products.

Maybe he's rolling his eyes at me...

I'm accustomed to this now so his hurried attitude doesn't affect me nearly as much as it used to.  I took my time looking through the quilted pieces which the Egyptians do so very well.  The intricate detail is amazing.  He also pulled out cloth that's used to decorate during Ramadan.  I really like the patterns and was trying to decide if Emileigh and Aria would like some, too.

If I touched something to look at it, he immediately folded it and put it in the "definitely want" pile.  I hadn't said I wanted it, but he was helping me expedite the process.  I'm sure he was concerned about my red, sweaty face.

I moved to the scarves where he began to inform me which ones were made in Egypt, which ones were Nubian and which ones were "no good from China."  ("Why do you have them then?" I thought.  But I kept my mouth shut.)

John had been around letting me search through the items waiting for the final negotiations to begin.  I made my final selections and the haggling began.  At first, he repeated how each piece has special qualities and how they weren't cheap souvenirs.  I smiled and said, "Okay, how much for everything?"

He repeated something in Arabic that sounded like the price of a small car.  John repeated what he said.  The man nodded.  John laughed and said, "Friend, we live here remember?"

Ahmed said, "Yes, yes.  I know.  This is good quality.  What do you think is a good price?"

The three of us went round and round discussing terms.  I had finally had enough and said, "Let's just get the two things we absolutely need today and leave the rest."

Ahmed already had everything bagged and was trying to place them on my arms.  

"We have a budget, Ahmed."

"Yes, I know, but you can go to the machine and get more money."

We laughed.  "The 'machine' isn't magic.  We have to have money before it gives us money."

"You can borrow from your friends!"  He had an answer for everything.

Finally we made him understand that the lack of cash wasn't the issue, his prices were.

He began to recount all of the problems he has had since the revolution.  He has no money, no customers, no new stock.  We nodded in understanding.  

We thanked him for his time and tried to purchase the two items.  He countered, "Okay.  Okay.  I understand now.  You want a good price.  We are friends.  Give me this much and you can have it all."

He had just declared a Blue Light Special and had marked down the merchandise by 80%. (He had started the negotiations with an insanely high amount.)  Now he was in the ballpark.

John shook his hand and said, "Deal."  Even with Ahmed's huge discount, we were still paying a bit more than average, but it was a win-win for both of us.

Ahmed looked at me and said, "Are you happy?"

"Yes, I am happy."

"Are you sure you're happy?" We all nodded and he gave us parting handshakes while inviting us to return soon with more friends.

We made it back to the apartment and I began to peruse our purchases.  Ah, yes, the fabrics were beautiful.  I hope the girls like their gifts.  They know what bargaining does to their mother. I am not good at it.  I usually fold after the second counter offer, but today I held my ground.  I neatly put the items away.  I poured a tall Diet Coke and proceeded to sit under the air conditioner before taking a very long recovery nap.  This negotiator was wiped out.

A quilted square from our first time in Egypt.

Today's BOGO Blog:  AbouZekry