Friday 20 September 2013

Winston Churchill and I Had Tea...Sort of...




What do Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie, Aga Khan, Jimmy Carter, and Lady Diana all have in common?  They each have visited our fair city, Asw@n, and have stayed at the historic Old Cataract Hotel.  

I'm a history nerd so facts like these are too intriguing for me not to follow up in inspection.  When we were deciding accommodations while in southern Egypt, we found one named the "Old Cataract Hotel" built in 1899 by Thomas Cook.
 

"Oooooooo," I said out loud to John, "This could be really cool."

I began investigating and found out that this hotel was built for the European tourists who traveled the Nile via boat during the turn of the 20th century.  Accommodations were few for travelers and even fewer for those considered "elite class."

The hotel was built on the common pink granite found here overlooking the Nile which includes several cataracts, thus the name.

The Old Cataract's first newspaper advertisement appeared in The Egyptian Gazette on 11 December 1899 and promised: "Every modern comfort. Large and small apartment rooms, library, billiard room, fireplaces in hall (what?!), salons and the main rooms. Electrical lights running all night. Perfect sanitary arrangements approved by the authorities. Can accommodate 60 visitors." 

The popularity of the hotel grew and additional buildings have been added through the years.  The Old Cataract Hotel became the place to stay while in Egypt even rivaling the infamous Mena House located by the pyramids in Cairo.

After reading all the information, I told John that this is a MUST see.  We weren't sure of prices or even if they would allow common folk like us inside, but we thought we would go try and drink tea.  (Always a safe proposal when lofty prices are expected.)

The Courtyard
We were greeted by a very friendly security guard who escorted us through the entry courtyard and into the main dining hall.  He handed us off to someone else who in turn took us to a maitre' d.  He seated us on the veranda which has a spectacular panoramic view of the river.
The view from the Veranda

Yet another person came and presented us with menus.  We perused the selections and then checked the prices.  Oooooooookay…looks like it still caters to those with serious expendable income.  Tea and pastries for us.

We enjoyed our time together and couldn't believe that this place existed in a place like Asw@n.  Seriously.  We live one block from this hotel and you would NEVER know that that kind of construction and design was possible.  We have dirt/sand roads and donkey traffic.  I felt transported.

One of the dining halls
I was already scheming about an extended tour so I asked the waiter if it would be possible.  He nodded and said he would get someone to help us.

We paid our bill and told ourselves that we weren't just paying for the tea, but for the experience.  It worked a little.

A man dressed in a black vest and red fez greeted us and indicated to follow him.  He took us through the beautiful arched hallways, up marble staircases until we reached the Winston Churchill Suite. He was one of the first famous visitors to stay at the hotel in 1902 for the inauguration of the Asw@n High Dam.

The Room!
It was opulent even for someone who has seen a documentary on Donald Trump's lifestyle.  I snapped pictures like a good tourist.  Our guide was patient.

Next he took us to the Agatha Christie Suite.  She had visited this location to do research for her book, "Death on the Nile."  A subsequent movie of the same name had portions shot at the hotel on location in 1978.

Exquisite indeed.  The hotel has seen many renovations since its earliest glory days, but still it held an old world charm and I felt as if we were stepping back into time.

Our guide led us through other areas such as the spa and club room before concluding the tour and waiting for his tip.

Agatha Christie's Room
John took care of him as I began to inquire how much it would cost to stay here.  John looked at me as if I were crazy.  "We can only afford tea here.  What are you thinking?" his eyes said.  I thought, "Hey, it's a revolution right now.  Maybe my $50 is looking pret-ty good right now."

I was wrong.  Very, very wrong.  It's $10,000 USD to stay one night in either suite.  No, I did not say one year.  One night.  I can't even tell you how far my mouth dropped open or how long I stood in shock.  I was paralyzed.  Did you say pesos?! Are the bones of Winston Churchill actually in the room gift-wrapped as a souvenir?!

John brought me back to my senses and said, "We should go now." 
The Old Cataract Hotel present day

We thanked our guide and walked out of this historic, magnificent structure that had been built during a completely different world and a very different Egypt.

Aesthetically I deeply appreciated its beauty.  Economically, I think they have lost touch with reality.

Ahhh, but for one morning it was beautiful to step back into such an elegant era.

We began walking toward home, turned the block and dodged a donkey cart trotting up our dirt road.  Such a funny, weird contrast of worlds.  That's Egypt then and now.

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Today's BOGO Blog:  Tarek Tours

The pool
Disembarking to go to the hotel.  Notice the name of the boat.
The giant bathroom
Winston's living room
Agatha Christie with friends at the hotel
The hotel in the early years

Another view of A.C.'s suite
Sitting at Agatha Christie's desk

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